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SKOPELOS Skopelos, which lies between Skiathos and Alonissos, is the largest of the Sporades islands. It has a long history, being first settled in 2,800 BC and later coming under the rule of the Cretan king Staphylos, whose tomb was discovered at the bay of the same name in 1927. Skopelos prospered in the Classical era, when its wine and oil were much in demand, then passed through periods of Macedonian, Byzantine and Ottoman control before becoming part of the independent Greek state in 1830. Most of the island’s population of 6,000 live in Skopelos town, the island’s capital on the east coast, or in Glossa, a village on the north side; other villages and hamlets are scattered throughout the island. There is one main road linking Skopelos town and Glossa, from which most of the island’s beaches can be reached. Skopelos town nestles on one side of a deep north-facing bay, a cascade of whitewashed houses and little churches descending a steep hillside to the harbour. At the top of the hill is the site of a 13th century Venetian fortress, a vantage point offering magnificent views of the bay; and from there a network of cobbled streets, lined with the white houses with overhanging bougainvillaea-entwined balconies and brightly painted doors and windows, runs down to the tavernas and cafes of the waterfront. Skopelos is renowned for its handicrafts and at every corner there are small shops selling traditional artifacts – woodcarvings, embroidery and the local black pottery – while the tavernas skirting the harbour offer some of the best cooking in the Greek islands. Most of the island’s best beaches are on the south coast and can be reached in a short bus or car ride from Skopelos town. They are predominantly of shingle or pebble and boast some of the clearest water in the Aegean, perfect for snorkelling. Stafilos, which is under an hour’s walk from town, is the nearest and most popular, boasting one taverna with spectacular views, while Agnondas, a little fishing village further up the coast, has a smaller beach but four fish tavernas. Further along the road towards Glossa are other welcoming beaches including Panormos and, round the Adrina peninsula, Milia, which is partly sandy and has watersports to offer as well as a beach bar and a taverna. From town these beaches are served by a regular bus service during the season, while the taxis will drop you off for the day and return to collect you at a prearranged time. Some beaches also have a water taxi service, while a range of vehicles is available to hire from workhorses like the Fiat Panda to small jeeps. Small boats with outboard motors can also be hired.
If the beach does
not tempt you every day, Skopelos is not short of more active options.
It is a great island for walking, with a varied landscape alternating
between thick pine forests, isolated monasteries and stunning coastal
scenery and local walking guides are readily available. Excursion boats
also depart each morning from the harbour, either on round the island
trips or a voyage across to neighbouring Alonissos and its marine park.
There you may not spot one of the endangered seals but may catch sight
of a dolphin, if you are lucky. There is also a more direct way to
travel to Alonissos, by the daily hydrofoil, by which you can also reach
the busier tourist island of Skiathos, the only one of the Sporades
group to have its own airport. |
OTHER ISLANDS
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Travel à la carte |
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