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HALKI Halki has everything the visitor needs - to do virtually nothing! Lying just a few miles off the west coast of Rhodes, this tiny island has completely escaped the busyness of its larger neighbour. The island’s only settlement is Emborio, set against a dramatic backdrop of rugged mountains and guarded by three restored windmills. Around the harbour, beautiful Venetian-style houses are arranged in an amphitheatre of ascending tiers, intersected by narrow lanes and steps. Landmarks are the stone clock tower on the south side, the graceful church tower on the north side, and, presiding over all, the white-painted Town Hall with its triangular roof and elegant columns. The paved seafront is home to a good range of tavernas, grill houses, bars and cafes, with a variety of settings and delicacies to appeal to all. The four supermarkets offer a surprisingly wide range of produce, while the one bakery is a popular stop for its scrumptious pastries and excellent bread. Emborio has three gift shops, offering between them a good variety in craftwork, jewellery, clothing and more. Halki has a post office but no bank, though there is now an ATM for access to cash. A few businesses do offer credit card facilities. Outside the village, there are two beach tavernas, Pondamos and Ftenagia. The first is at the sandy beach, loved for its gentle slope into calm water. The second is in the bay beyond the hotel, where the water is a fabulous range of blues, and the snorkelling as good as the views. Both tavernas offer full meals, bar service, snacks, and ice cream, and hire out sunbeds. The beaches are a short walk from the village – or you can catch the minibus! Look out for the schedule displayed round the village. Or do the trips by the taxi, at the same rate. Other destinations served by the minibus are the newly refurbished hotel, the northerly beach of Kania, and, at least once a day, the old village in the mountains and the Monastery of St John the Far, nearly at the end of the island. For those feeling energetic, the walk to the village and the Crusader castle above, and especially the far Monastery, provide awesome scenery and spectacular views over the sea to Rhodes and other islands. And if a trip to the beach is too much effort, you can slip into the crystal clear waters of the harbour, away from the central traffic area, only keeping half an eye open for the occasional boat approaching the moorings. For those wishing to explore further, there are beaches such as Areta and Trachea, or the caves of the South coast, which need the taxi boat. There is a small trip boat also, offering mainly the trip to the neighbouring deserted island of Alimnia. Even bustling Rhodes is reachable in a day, if you're up to that early start and all the hustle of the crowds. Or try a trip to Tilos, next up in the Dodecanese chain, and very different from Halki.
So, for an island
with everything you need to do nothing, there is quite a lot going on –
but no noisy night clubs, no waterfront traffic. From the bars and
tavernas, from your terrace or balcony, you can sit and drink in the
wonderful sea views, the spectacular sunrises and sunsets, and the night
sky shining with more stars than you ever imagined existed. |
OTHER ISLANDS
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Travel ŕ la carte |
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